The Vivienne Westwood fashion show in Mumbai did not bring the punk

The late Dame Vivienne Westwood, the British designer who dragged punk and new-wave fashion into the mainstream in the 1970s, once quipped, “Popular culture is a contradiction in terms. If it’s popular, it’s not culture.” Her disdain for conformity and her love for rebellion were the hallmarks of a career that redefined style as a form of dissent. “Democratic envy,” as she termed it, made people dress alike simply to belong. She preferred dressing for herself — even if no one else approved.

That ethos lingered in the air at Vivienne Westwood’s recent show in Mumbai, staged against the dramatic backdrop of the Gateway of India. The venue — last seen hosting Dior’s pre-Fall showcase in 2023 — came with weighty expectations. Where Dior offered polished precision, Westwood delivered something else entirely: looser, moodier, and far less structured.

Secrecy surrounded the event. There was no pre-show buzz and invites were last-minute invites. A passing drizzle left the air sultry and thick with tension.